PRISON JAPAN / day four

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THURSDAY, MAY 18, 2007 ---- Japan is the Ultimate Prison.
WAY BACK AT THE END OF 2000 when I was new to Japan and like many newbies, naive enough to think that I had a future here, I met an American called Mark. Mark Gross, in fact, and he was as every bit as obnoxious, as his Germanic name suggested. Overbearing, overweight, and apparently fluent in Japanese, Mark had lived in Toyko for 3 years. Despite his language proficiency and a steady stream of JGirlfriends, Mark hated Japan with a passion, and was literally counting down the days to his departure. When I asked him when his disillusionment with Japan began, he replied: "About the time my plane landed at Narita Airport." When I asked him what he hated about Japan the most, he replied: "They just don't kiss American ass enough." The Japanese people were just too proud, perhaps because of their isolationist past, their inheritance of the Chinese Middle Kingdom complex, and perhaps because their economy was number two in the world. Mark said: "I want to go somewhere where Americans count."

Gross indeed, and in my newbie naivete, I was quick to denounce Mark as the ugly American who could and would never understand the deep nuances of Japanese culture. How naive I was, how wrong I have turned out to be! Mark was right -- Japan was a trap, a sinkhole for gaijin who could have gone on to brighter things, had they stayed in their own country.

Anyway, this is how the story started: On Sunday, March 13 I went over to see my friend Crystal Meth and Garnet, who was in Japan for the weekend. I had already had a big weekend and was very tired, so I wasn't really in the mood for another late night. But you know, the guys insisited I go out! Actually the real reason I decided to go out on that soon to be fateful and almost fatal Sunday night, was that I wanted to see Garnet's old girlfriend Miho, who was also in attendance. I was starting to think I might have a chance with her.

I have got a new girlfriend down in Vietnam and I aim to see her a lot this year, up to 5 times if I can swing it. Since I live in Japan and Air China is pretty much the cheapest carrier between Tokyo and Ho Chi Minh, I expect to rack up plenty of air miles in the Chinese skies this year and beyond (and if I am smart I will monetise them before carbon taxes start kicking in.) Given that Air China offers the cheapest routes, I expect to become a frequent flyer in the lead up to the Olympics, and hopefully an old hand by the end of the decade. I expect I will get to know Beijing's Capital Airport very well as this relationship develops. I have always wanted to visit China, and today I made my first acquaintances. It was a grim and gray day as I headed east to Tokyo's Narita Airport, to board my Air China flight. Just before we took off, however, the sun came out, and for the first ever time I was treated to an urban flyover of Tokyo's familar sprawl, in weather clear enough to see it. Tokyo opened up like a circuit board in the midwinter shine, intersected by countless tsunami proofed rivers and their floodplains. Following the course of the rivers with my eyes to see if I could recognise them, memories surged into my mind (via a fairly convoluted path of free association) of my days hanging out with Maniac High in the summer, how I kissed that girl in the pool at Yomiuri Land. But me and Maniac High had parted ways, and in a way, it felt this flyover closed the page on that chapter of my life. A new era had come, and its epicenter was in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Beach Babes, VietnamBeach Babes, Vietnam

I had been waiting half of 2007 for this chance to get back to Vietnam and see Nga, ever since I had met her in Ho Chi Minh City in March, and then gotten to know her over the Internet and via other remote technology. It was what Hollywood might have called a "cute meet", back in the Golden Age: I met her one night at Allez Boo where she worked. I talked to her for a while and then said I had to go check my email. Apparently mishearing me (or was it wishful thinking?), she immediately wrote her email address and gave it to me -- she must have thought I had asked for it. I went back to Allez Boo to see her a few more nights and it was obvious the spark of chemistry flew. What lousy luck it was that I couldn't live in Vietnam and get to know her further! But I did promise to fly down to see her again as soon as possible, and that gave me something to look forward to. It was no problem accumulating the cash; I had some good new jobs in Japan. But then Fate started throwing all manner of absurd obstacles in my way, to prevent me from seeing Nga. I moved house to Edogawa Ward in east Tokyo, and it ended up costing me a lot more money than I expected. Even more absurdly, I got arrested in Tokyo and spent over two weeks in custody with Maniac High, a Kiwi Ninja whose Ninja skills didn't do either of much good, in running away from the cops. I thought at that time, as the cell doors slammed shut, and I shunted into my brightly lit room like a lost lamb, that all my chances with Nga were over. I was a goner: deportation was the best thing that could happen to me. I even asked my lawyer to send Nga a line, but he seemed to think it was inappropriate. After vast expanses of boredom and captivity and sitting on the floor in Kitazawa Police Station reading crappy novels, hellish bus trips about town in handcuffs and walking the chain gang down scuffed and gray corridors, up and down endless flights of stairs, and here and there the odd spot of interrogation at the Public Prosecutor's office, abruptly one sunny day the doors swung open, and I was free. Not exactly free to see Nga just yet, but at least free to start saving for it. By the end of the year I had repaid my debts and accumulated enough capital, to make my flight. Air China was the cheapest option I could afford.

Anyway, we were walking the streets for an hour or two, and then Garnet said: "Let's go to a karaoke box to sing a few songs." He said something like we should try and avoid paying the bill for it, but I just thought he was joking. So we went inside the karaoke box, it was about 4am on a Monday morning (Dad's birthday.) I was so tired at this stage (after moving house and 3 days of nearly no sleep) that I wasn't really aware what was happening. We were there about an hour, and then suddenly Garnet and Crystal started running out the door saying: "Come on, let's run for it!" I moved to the front door and saw Garnet and Crys running down the street. I looked back and I saw the karaoke staff starting to run after us -- one of them pushed a button and a siren started sounding (I think this was also to alert the police.) So I was standing at the door with no money in my pocket, and Garnet said: "Come on, be a man for once in your life. Run!" And I started to run. That was my big mistake because I might not have been in prison so long if I had have stayed inside the karaoke box.

Suffice to say, the karaoke staff were a lot faster at running than me. I only got about 200 meters. Within 3 or 4 minutes the police were there putting the cuffs on me. They took me to the Kitazawa Police Station where I was to stay for the next 2 weeks. The police also arrested Menace, the New Zealander.

Menace the TV and Porn Star
Menace the TV and porn star
on Japanese TV in 2006
One of the first things the police asked me, on my maiden day of questioning at Kitazawa Police Station on May 14, was "have you ever taken any illegal drugs?" I replied no automatically, and the police didn't pursue the matter any further -- but had they bothered to do a simple blood test, I would have been cactus. The truth of the matter is, Menace and I had been smoking hash fairly brazenly on the long night before our hard arrest, and I was in fact stoned when they raced me by squad car, sirens blazing, to the imposing five-storey edifice of the police station. I was stoned and drunk and giddy as the police led me, cuffed, through the long and bustling corridors, past a room where some kind of crowd control simulation was taking place -- I could hear women screaming, cops shouting: "Stay back! stay back!" Bizarre stuff, especially when you are off your head, and I said to the policeman who was escorting me: "Omoshiroi!" ("It's interesting!") Taking me for a smartass, the policeman replied: "Omoshirokunai yo!" ("It's not interesting at all!") He misread me -- I wasn't being a smartass, I was genuinely interested, and felt like a tourist observing my own arrest (or an undercover reporter.) I was, however, stoned, and if the cops had known that, my fate would have been grim indeed. If Menace had still been carrying his lump of hash when we were nabbed, we both would have been in trouble. We had been smoking all night, in the toilets at a Shimokitazawa billiards hall, out on the streets with a bunch of Nepali parasites. Miraculously, Menace had run out of hash by the time we were caught. Or maybe it simply wasn't our destiny to get stung with drug possession charges in Japan.

On the first day there I was convinced they were going to question me and then let me go, but it didn't work out that way. They said they were going to charge me with fraud, which is a serious offence, so they slapped some pretty severe prohibitions on me (no visitors, no phone calls, and Menace and I weren't allowed to talk to each other.) The first time they took me up the cells one of the scariest looking prison wardens I have ever seen looked me up and down and said: "Take off your clothes." I kept thinking: This must be a dream, I can't believe this is happening. It is a nightmare. They took me to a cell, which I had to share with a few other people (Japanese and Chinese prisoners for the most part.) Still, I thought they would let me go the next day.

Of course they didn't let me go, and I had to stay there a total of 16 days before letting me go. According to the law, the police in Japan can detain someone up to 23 days without laying charges, so I guess I am lucky they let me go after 16 days. And if they charged me, I would have had to spend another 6 weeks in there waiting for a court appearance. (They said I could pay bail to get out of prison, but bail would be set at $15,000.) I was thinking: if I do get charged I will spend the 6 weeks in prison, and then go back to Australia to live when I got out. I think I probably would have lost my job at Telephone English if I was charged and had a criminal record, and this job was the only reason I wanted to continue living in Japan.



PRISON JAPAN... PRISON PLANET.
Contact the author Rob Sullivan at coderot@gmail.com. All comments will be published at the bottom of this page. Anticopyright February 2008.
For a Japanese language guide to Japanese lockup, click here.
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Contact the author at coderot@gmail.com.