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SAIGON ZOO » Welcome to Ho Chi Minh City (Otherwise Known as Saigon) » Things to See in Ho Chi Minh City (A-Z): Ben Thanh Market » Cholon » Churches » Celebrating Christmas in Ho Chi Minh City » Cao Dai Temple » Chu Chi Tunnels » Pagodas » Park Life » Reunification Hall » Saigon Zoo » Saigon Race Track » Saigon River » Suoi Tien Amusement Park » War Relics » Water Puppets » Things to Buy: Furniture » Things to Eat in Ho Chi Minh City: Restaurant Guide » Places to Party in Ho Chi Minh City: Bars and Clubs » Places to Stay in Ho Chi Minh City: Saigon Hotels » Getting There: Ho Chi Minh City's Tan Son Nhat International Airport » Further Afield: Phu Quoc Island » Buying Real Estate in Vietnam? » Learning Basic Travel Vietnamese » Media in Vietnam » Cambodian Churches |
SteepleStacked /// SAIGON CHURCHES
THERE ARE A TON OF CHURCHES IN HO CHI MINH CITY. There are tonnes of temples too, and many of them are gaudy. That's not why we are here. We are here for the churches. Even if you are not Christian or religious, the churches of Ho Chi Minh City offer a fascinating glimpse into the cultural life of the people... and its turbulent recent history. I have read that after the creation of a Communist republic in North Vietnam, thousands of Christians fled to the south, to escape persecution.
After the Fall of Saigon, some 120,000 laypeople and 300 priests fled the area to avoid the communists then, while 370 Church facilities were closed or confiscated by the government, said the cardinal, head of Ho Chi Minh City archdiocese.
The zoo has two gates: the main gate is on Nguyen Binh Khiem Street at the corner of Le Duan Street, and the other one is on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street.
The Human Rights Watch says: "Nguyen Van Dai remains in prison, serving a four-year sentence under article 88. He was arrested for teaching law and human rights to students at his law firm. He founded the Committee for Human Rights in Vietnam with Le Thi Cong Nhan in 2006, and took on the legal defense for embattled Protestant churches, including the Mennonite pastor and former political prisoner Nguyen Hong Quang."
See also http://www.loudpapermag.com/articles/saigon-zoo-beauty-and-the-beast-the-subtropical-architecture-of-possession
All the while imagining that I am in some Vietnam War made for TV movie. It is all the right ambience. Just as my ten years in Japan (2000s) have given me the chance to live out my Bladerunner fantasies on a daily basis, so my coming 10 years (2010s) in Vietnam will give me the chance to live out my Apocalypse Now! fantasies. And my Hemingway and Graham Greene fantasies as well, to various degrees of appropriateness.
![]() THERE WERE PLENTY OF FAMOUS IMAGES FROM THE VIETNAM WAR, BUT ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS, WAS THAT OF TANKS SMASHING THEIR WAY THROUGH THE GATES OF THE BUILDING NOW KNOWN AS REUNIFICATION HALL. ![]() ![]() ![]() Bikes and Jesus.
![]() GROOVY GROTTOES ![]() Where I come from (Australia) there are plenty of churches but I have never seen this kind of strange formation, like a little stone mound accompanying the church. Actually these cratures are called grottos, and they seem to be a standard feature alongside Vietnamese churches. With their Mother Mary icons and flowers, they look like a strange eruption of the Italian countryside into the bustling streets of south-east Asia. Let's blame it on the colonial legacy! French, not Italian, but whatever, they are both Catholic.
![]() Mother Mary statue, crucifix, gorgeous flowers and a wall packed full of gratitude.
![]() These plaques are almost all adorned with the title Mẹ Maria, or "Mother Mary". Some of them say: Chúa và Mẹ or "God and Mother". Tạ Ơn Đức Mẹ means "Thanksgiving Mary". Or something like that. Obviously a lot of people come here to give thanks to Mary. For what, exactly, I am not sure. For the granting of the wishes that they made, by candelight, in the aforeposted grotto shot? It is a possibility.
![]() ![]() Here is another grotto on the road to Cholon. The church it adjoins is apparently dedicated to Jean of Arc.
![]() Open from 6am to 6pm. ![]() Communist iconography, and the heritage of the church.
![]() On the way to Saigon Railway Station I passed this small church. We found an easier entrance, just to the left, where you can be admitted for about 50 cent - it mustn't have been open that day. Maybe the current decorators are exaggerating a bit to demonstrate the counter-socialist ideals of the south before its liberation, or maybe its accurate, but this place is like a cross between the Playboy Mansion and a Bond villain's secret lair. The cinema, game room, snooker tables and piano co-exist with the Map Rooms and underground bunkers decked out with those old Telecom Eireann phones (though I don't think they were the actual suppliers) and enormous radios. It really has the feel of a place Dr. Evil would occupy while plotting his takeover of the world. Probably for more than 1 million dong. That wouldn't even cover the bill in a decent hotel. Or gifts for an engaged couple - though we don't know the price of a good pair of ducks in those days..."
(Bien Hoa, Gia Dinh, Dinh Tuong, Vinh Long, An Giang, Ha Tien). In 1868, the French Government started to have designed and built at the center of Saigon a palace used as the Governor Generalfs Palace and named it NORODOM's Palace. The construction was started on Feb. 23, 1868 and completed in 1871 by the French Governor General in the South of Vietnam named Lagradieøre who placed the first stone. From 1871 to 1887 it was called the Governor Generalfs Palace of the South Part.
PLACES TO STAY
Thien Hai Son Resort: US$44. ![]() Duc Church is located at 41 Vo Van Ngan street, Linh chieu street, Thu duc district, Ho chi minh city, near Thu duc market. It's over 100 years old, it still remains magnificently beautiful. It was built in 1880 on the design of a Catholic priest named Boutier, who also designed the Huyen Sy church. He was appointed vicar of Phong Phu Parish- Thu Duc. (View 846) CHRISTIANITY IN THE SLUMS ![]() District 4 has a reputation of being the slummy side of Ho Chi Minh City. Since I like slums, I made it a point to walk through a part of the district on my last trip to Vietnam (June/July 2010). To get there from District 1 you cross a bridge over a squalid looking vegetable market, and then a canal lined with garbage. On the other side of the canal a large church, Vĩnh Hội, rises from the warehouses. It might be a poor neighborhood, but the people who live here are rich in spirit.
![]() The church is the heart of this community.
![]() Vĩnh Hội, which is located at 158 Bẽn Vân Đồn Street, apparently dates from 1966. That means it was built right in the middle of the turmoil of the Vietnam War. There are a number of other grand churches in District 4, among them Xóm Chiếu which I hope to stumble upon someday, and Tôn Đản. ![]() Located on the hill of coconut palm trees occupied around 3.5 hectares, Saigon Phu quoc is a beautiful seaside resort in a quiet place and plenty of sunshine. ![]() View Larger Map Yen Phuong Minihotel US$8 "In another story, Tran Minh Phuong, 23, an accountant at a toy-making company in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) says she earns VND1.8 million ($113) a month and has to pay a third of that in rent for her little one-room apartment. "They all dream of owning their own apartments but with property price sky-rocketing that is simply impossible. "Not only locals but about 81,000 expats in Vietnam have also suffered from soaring rents and greedy landlords, even though their income is much higher..." (For full story click here.)
TWIN SPIRES ![]() I have been trying to find Saigon Racetrack for some time now. I haven't been able to find it, but on my last walk in its direction, on the 3 Thang 2 Road, I saw this new church rising from the streetscape. .) There are 89 one to three-bedroom units; room facilities include: satellite television, local & IDD telephone, bathroom with long bath and separate shower compartment, wardrobes, Intercom, laundry machines, water filtration system, VCR and Hi-Fi System, 100% electricity back-up and safes & security surveillance. King-sized beds are draped with 100% cotton duvets. The fully equipped kitchen boasts electric cooker hood, cabinet and oven.
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