CHANGI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT // lost in transit

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8 Hour Layover in Singapore: Suggestions - Arab Street, Singapore - Changi Adventures - Coming of the A380s - Eat in Transit at Singapore Airport - Jetstar Gets Green Light for Singapore to KL Air Route - Massage in Singapore Airport - Sleep In Singapore Airport - Star Alliance - The Travelling Hungryboy's Guide to Singapore Cuisine - What To Do in Singapore Airport
ONE OF MY FONDEST MEMORIES OF THE EARLY 2000s was my epic journey (courtesy of Singapore Airlines and Iceland Express) to the virtual roof of the planet in Iceland in 2003. Looking back upon it now from the luxury of a more affluent age, it seems a crazy idea: I set out with barely enough money to survive, let alone enough to live well when I got to my various exotic destinations. And sure enough, despite trying to do Iceland on cup ramen and bottled green tea, I finally ran out of money in the final week. From then on, I could only travel on foot (a daunting prospect indeed in such a sprawling city as Reykjavik!) From then on, I was forced to rely on the generosity of strangers. Since I didn't have the money for a hotel, I spent two nights sleeping in airports: first on the hard cold plastic seats at Keflavik south of Reykjavik, and then on a somewhat more comfortable sofa at Copenhagen's flyghaven. I never had to overnight it at Changi, although it was on the cards at one point. That is almost a pity because transiting in Singapore has all the potential to be a fun experience (even if you don't have any cash.) What other airport in the world takes idling transit passengers on a FREE city tour? (it sure beats watching CNN on a hard seat for an 11-hour layover.)

Get yourself lost in transit in Singapore
For a while people have been trying to determine which country should be able to define itself truly as the heart of Asia: and there are two main contenders to that title... Singapore and Thailand. Now, Singapore and Thailand are both eminently nice places, and they are nice in different ways. The question is: which country has the better airport, and which thus deserves to your Asian Hub? I have to confess right here that while Bangkok's new Suvarnabhumi Airport is big and new, it doesn't really compete with the old school style and opulence of Changi. What do I mean by opulence? -- I am talking about orchid gardens and swanky armchairs, free cinemas and rooftop bars. Miles and miles of corridors packed with things to do. These are the things which make Changi Airport an attraction in its own right, and a worthy place to hang out. Suvarnabhumi doesn't seem to have quite the same vibe. If I was strapped for cash and I had to crash for the night in the terminal to save money on accommodation, I would prefer to sleep at Changi. Oh, there are miles and miles of shops in Bangkok's new airport, and a spa and a bowling alley, but the atmosphere is stark rather than swank. Singapore is a no-brainer choice.

Given that I have been to Singapore so many times, I want to create a website which celebrates the city and provides information for the curious outsider.

Toilets in the transit lounge of Singapore's Changi AirportToilets in the transit lounge of Singapore's Changi AirportToilets in the transit lounge of Singapore's Changi Airport

e a t + i n + t r a n s i t

MY FIRST SINGAPOREAN VISIT WAS INDEED FLEETING -- and, according to official definitions, not a real visit, because I didn't leave the airport. It is true, I only stayed a couple of hours, and I got no stamp in my passport, so I never officially entered the country. It is true, I spent all of my visit inside the confines of Singapore's Changi Airport. But even if you had a couple of days in transit, you would not run out of things to see, buy, eat, drink or watch. Then there is the people watching: a fully international kaleidescope! Shabbily dressed Australians with friendly faces, sunburnt French tourists wearing conical hats they picked up in Vietnam, doing the Mekong Delta. Blonde Scandinavian kids, Japanese businessmen dressed sharp as knives. Whole posses of Indians in saris, Buddhist monks in flowing gold robes, from Myanmar and the Thai Kingdom. The last time I was in transit in Singapore, I saw a huge troupe of haredi Jews, dressed as sharp and black as the Japanese businessmen. If seeing the whole world in a microcosm is your thing, then you better think about stopping in Singapore. You just have to look at the food selection here, to see how cosmopolitan this place is. As always, Singapore is a trade city, the king of the trade routes.

That all said, Singapore has its own style foodwise, and they are not afraid of showing it off, at Changi Airport! The airport's inhouse Changi Class magazine wrote in its April 2008 edition: "Chilli crab, laksa and satay are some of the best loved dishes in tropical Singapore. Feast on these and other uniquely Singaporean delights right here at changi Airport.

Chilli Crab: Chen Fu Ji Noodle House, Terminal 2.
Locals in Singapore would baulk at the idea of eating cold crab; food aficionados here prefer their crustaceans stir-fried in a variety of spicy, piquant sauces. Chilli crab, which is served swimming in a tangy sweet but fiery hot gravy, is by far the most popular cooking style and is widely acknowledged as the unofficial national dish of Singapore (eds. note: right up there with fish head curry and chicken rice and all the others, of course, lah!)

Chilli Crab Dip and Chinese Buns: Hardrock Cafe, Terminal 3.
I quote this TravBuddy review, dated January 14, 2008: "The Hardrock Cafe in Terminal 3 on Changi Airport is worth searching for (believe me, we walked past it twice before finding it in the back of a niche, behind kind of an open living room, with couches and large TV sets.
"The atmosphere is nice and laid back, especially for a metalhead like me. There's plenty of space to sit, either in booths or ordinary chairs and when it comes to food, it still makes my mouth water. On our city tour we heard of Singapore's speciality, the Chilli Crab, and both of us really wanted a taste of that. Imagine our surprise when we found it on the menu! Chilli Crab Dip, served with Chinese buns. The Ceasar Salad on the side was of great value too and the strawberry milkshake was fantastic dessert. On our second visit, on the way back home, we couldn't resist taking the Crab Dip again, but this time we finished with an Apple Cobbler..."

Kaya Toast: Ya Kun Kaya Toast, Arrival Hall, public area Terminal 3 and Basement 2, public area Terminal 3; Wang Cafe, Terminal 2 and Level 2; Toast Box, Terminals 1 and 3.
This Singaporean sandwich is made with a generous amount of sweet coconut jam and a thick slab of butter wedged between two slices of crisply toasted bread. Traditionally eaten for breakfast alongside half-boiled eggs and a cup of Chinese coffee, the snack is just as delish when eaten on its own.

Laksa: Prima Taste, Terminal 3.
One of the most widely eaten dishes in Singapore, laksa is a dish of rice noodles soaked in a rich gravy made of dried shrimp, coconut milk, and Asian spices such as galangal and lemongrass. It's served with blanched bean sprouts, sliced fish cake and sometimes, a hard boiled egg, shrimp, or cockles.
As well as laksa, Prima Taste offers Hainanese chicken rice (poached chicken served with fragrant rice with a medley of sauces - chilli, ginger and black soy sauce), and mee Siam (rice vemicelli with prawns in tangy assam gravy, served with an assortment of garnishes.

It has been suggested (at least by one Thai visitor) that Terminal 2 has the more authentic (read: hawker Singaporean food), because it caters for Asian travellers. Wrote the aforementioned Thai TravBuddy: "Changi Airport is efficient, nice environmentally correct airport as always. However, since the basic short and long flight difference between the terminals, the local Singaporean has two different names for the terminals. The Terminal 2 for short flight (not so expensive flight) is "Hawker Terminal" whereas the Terminal 3 long flight (much more expensive) is "Rich people Terminal"...

And last but not least, SavvyTraveller writes: "I actually look forward to a trip to Singapore just for the airport. I've never seen anything like it. I mean, how often do you hear the sounds of fake birds at an airport? I'm in the orchid garden, home to a small pond and the soundtrack of chirping birds. It's a tiny island of plants surrounded by a sea of carpet right in the middle of the departure terminal. For something less serene, let's wander upstairs and take in a free movie..."

These writers have said it all, and better than I can say it myself. Changi Airport is cool. I can't wait until I make it down to the Singaporean island again, and enjoy a long layover at the airport.

Photo copyright LongPasses.Org

t r a n s i t + t o u r

ACCORDING TO CHANGI AIRPORT'S OFFICIAL WEBSITE, AND MY OWN EXPERIENCE OVER THE PAST ! YEARS, THE AIRPORT BOASTS THE FOLLOWING AMENITIES:

Visiting Singapore has this advice for transit passengers hoping to make the most of their time in the republic:
Free City Shuttle to town
If you have at least six hours to spare in transit, hop on our Free City Shuttle to town to discover Singapore's ethnic heritage or opt for the ultimate retail therapy at one of the shopping malls:
Little India - Little India is a centre of Indian culture, commerce and leisure. Try a sari, watch spice grinders mill aromatic spices or have your fortune told by a parakeet, all in a day. Or, visit Mustafa Centre, a 24-hour emporium-cum-department-store which stocks everything  Efrom jewellery and clothes to foodstuffs and electronics  Eunder one roof.
Suntec City  EShopping in Singapore is a truly enjoyable adventure. The superb connectivity brings miles of uninterrupted shopping and dining under one roof.
Bugis Street - Care has been taken to preserve hints of this area's old-world charm which is inspired by the nostalgic nature of "pasar malam" or night market. This night market atmosphere with sheltered walkway and air-conditioned zones set this ambience abuzz. Experience an eclectic mix of trendy street fashion, cafe, hawker food and services as the street bustles at all times of the day. There is always something for everyone. Check out the free shuttle schedules to the above places at our Singapore Visitors Centres. Whisk off on an adventure with your personal licensed taxi tour guide (TTG). Let our dedicated TTG show you the wonders and sights in the city  Ethe way you want it to be! Simply call 6472 7351 to book or approach our Singapore Visitors Centres for assistance. * Booking of a TTG with normal 3-litre taxi (carries up to 4 pax) : S$35 per hour * Booking of a TTG with Mercedes LimoCab (carries up to 4 paxs) : S$45 per hour * Booking of a TTG with MaxiCab (carries up to 6 paxs) : S$45 per hour * Minimum booking of three hours per TTG If you have at least four hours to spare in transit, book a free two-hour city tour that brings you around Singapore for a glimpse of what’s in store for you. Simply approach our Singapore Visitors Centres for more information. These tours are run daily at regular timings. Pre-registration is required. Choose from the following tour options: Colonial Tour Retrace the fascinating footsteps of Singapore’s colonial past and witness its transformation from a quaint fishing village to a bustling metropolis. See how the past links seamlessly with the future, and the old with the new, as you take a bumboat ride along the scenic Singapore River. Cultural Tour Experience a fascinating potpourri of sights, sounds and smells as this tour takes you to the ethnic areas of Chinatown, Kampong Gelam, Little India and Katong to learn about Singapore’s distinctive cultures and custom. 14 -- Changi's fitness centre or the gym in the Ambassador Transit Hotel have sessions for between $AUS8 and $AUS12 (including hire of sports attire and footwear). At the rooftop swimming pool and jacuzzi complex, a swim and shower costs $AUS10. You must bring your own swimwear but soap, shampoo, shower gel, moisturising lotion and towels are provided. If you're feeling a bit out of puff after your workout, head to the oxygen bar, where 10 minutes of pure oxygen costs $AUS12.

Anyway, you get the picture: it is one kick-ass airport, consistently voted the best in the world. You could spend the day in there, and still find things to do. Maybe start the day with a swim in the pool, a massage, check out the science museum, and then catch a cheesy movie in the cinema. By this time it is lunchtime so you could order some of of the huge cheese dosas and mango juice they serve in one of the Indian restaurants, or perhaps a round of sushi. Since it is now afternoon it is okay to start drinking, so I would hit the bars for a chance to meet fellow travellers waiting for their planes, or to watch a bit of TV (there are special viewing lounges set aside for CNN or BBC or the Discovery Channel, for example, as well as sports areas where you can watch boxing or the golf.) There are options all round, and plenty of beverages to be consumed.

Photo copyright LongPasses.Org

s l e e p + i n + t r a n s i t

"THE AMBASSADOR TRANSIT HOTEL IS BARE BONES, BUT OFFERS MUCH BETTER SLEEPING CONDITIONS THAN ANY AIRPLANE BED, FLAT RECLINER OR NOT," wrote one Changi Airport enthusiast Ho John Lee a few years ago. Since that time, a lot of visitors to Changi International Airport have concurred. "At last," wrote Fodor's in one of their guides, "a lodging truly geared to bleary-eyed travelers en route to still another destination. This hotel is inside Changi Airport, on Level 3 of the departure lounge in both Terminals 1 and 2. (Note: if you stay here, you don't go through immigration control.) Rooms are clean, fresh, and basic. Rates are for six-hour periods and include use of the swimming pool, sauna, and fitness center. Nonguests may also use the pool (S$10), the sauna and showers (S$10), or just the shower (S$5). www.airport-hotel.com.sg. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, gym, spa. AE, DC, MC, V."

Unlike me, Ho John Lee has actually stayed in the transit airport (not my style -- I am more likely to be found sleeping outside on the concourse with plugs stuffed in my ears!) Ho John Lee says:

"The Singapore airport has two transit hotels, a swimming pool, and two gyms on the terminal airside, meaning that you don't have to go through security. This is a bigger win these days than a few years ago. I've also gone into town to stay at a 'real' hotel, but while I'm on business travel I hardly do more than sleep, run, and wash at any hotel, and it hardly seems worth it.
"The regular rooms have between 1 and 4 beds, a small desk, television, and bathroom. The economy rooms are smaller, some do not have a television, do not have a separate bathroom, but are adjacent to the gym, where there are a number of shower rooms.
"Interestingly, the rooms have indicators pointing to Mecca, for the convenience of their Islamic clientele. There is also a small children's play area on the ground floor, but I've never seen any families at the transit hotel. It usually seems to be business travellers, and people are just trying to sleep. International flights are coming and going around the clock, so the hotel books blocks of six hours at a time, which can be extended by the hour. It's about US$35 for a room."

If you don't have the means or inclination for a bed in transit hotels, then the excellent website Sleep in Airports ought to be your friend. Sleep in Airports has summarised Changi International Airport thus: "Comfortable couches, seating with and without armrests, televisions, gift shops, bookstores, fine jewelry/clothing shops, fast food, sit down restaurants, bars, prayer rooms, kids play areas, fitness facilities, designated sleep areas, movie theatres, massage/spa services, hair salon, clean bathrooms with flush toilets, confusion over whether the showers are free or not, some announcements, high air-conditioning. A few germ phobics believed Singapore could be a little more clean. Security is friendly and pays little attention to you Most people would enthusiastically repeat their Singapore airport sleep. A few really would prefer a real bed (but would do it again in a jam)..."

Photo copyright LongPasses.Org

s p a + i n + t r a n s i t

CHANGI AIRPORT'S IN-HOUSE MAGAZINE HAS A LOT OF TIPS FOR HOW TO RELAX WHILE IN TRANSIT. In fact, being in transit should ideally be all about recharging (your body) and reconnecting (with the world) after all that time spent in the air. Sadly, in transit is hardly a relaxing experience in most airports around the world. Standing in lines and getting herded around by officers and officials barking irrational orders seems to be a common complaint, particularly in China. At Changi International Airport, on the other hand, you can take a dip in the pool, meditate in orchid gardens, or even get a pedicure. As the Changi Class magazine writes: "Shake off the jetlag from a long-haul flight with a dip in the Balinese-themed swimming pool at Terminal 1. Passengers staying at the Transit Hotel here can use the pool facilities for free. If you are not a guest, you can still do your laps for a small fee of S$13.90, which includes complimentary use of shower facilities, a towel and a non-alcoholic drink."
For something a little harder, here are some of the treatments available in transit at Singapore Airport:

Cozy Slumberettes: Rainforest Lounge, Terminal 1.
Nothing calms the mind like the presence of nature, and there is plenty of nature in the Rainforest Lounge, Terminal 1. Visitors can take a nap in one of the slumberettes, or enjoy a relaxing aromatic salt scrub. Better yet, soak away the fatique from your tired bones in the designer jacuzzis. At just S$28 an hour, you will be wishing you had more time before your plane to Melbourne departs!

Scrub and Glow: Body Contours Nail and Spa, Basement 2, Public Area, Terminal 3.
This is a great place to charge up your comolexion before stepping on to the beach in Phuket or Nha Trang, or wherever you are headed. Some of the luxurious spa treatments at Body Contours include the Tropical Fruits Scrub, Balinese Coffee Buff and Honey Milk Glow.

Tropical Comforts: The Ultimate Spa, Terminal 2.
As Changi Class reports: "We all know that long periods of air travel can dehydrate the skin and leave you looking and feeling, well, unattractive. Treat your tired feet to a pedicure or get a full body massage at The Ultimate Spa. Whatever it is, you will be feeling rejuvenated in no time."
"Singapore Airlines matches this mighty package of fun and games with its KrisWorld entertainment system. Most 747-400 and 777-300 aircraft also have the Wisemen 3000 video-on-demand system, which results in a combined choice of something like 60 movies, 100 TV programs, 225 music CDs, 12 music channels and 91 games. Live television, via broadband wireless, has been available to laptop-carrying passengers since last year. Now there's also high-speed in-flight internet access enabled through Connexion by Boeing, with hourly rates or a flat rate for the entire flight.
"Other airlines are fast playing catch up. Air New Zealand now has video on demand in all classes on international routes from Auckland to San Francisco, London Heathrow and Singapore. Cathay Pacific has it in first and business class on long-haul flights with a choice of 50 films and more than 100 TV programs, and Virgin Atlantic is currently rolling it out across its fleet. Qantas offers video-on-demand on certain flights using the Airbus 330.
"We've certainly come a long way since the 1921 screening of the first in-flight film. But which airline would you award the entertainment Oscar?"

Photo copyright LongPasses.Org

c h a n g i + c o n v e r s i o n

CHANCE ENCOUNTER WITH SINGAPORE AIRPORT'S RESIDENT MAD BORN AGAIN XTIAN, AUGUST 2003:

The offender in question was Chinese, blotch-faced --- an employee of the airport taking an evening break. He seemed over-eager to until he eventually wandered off back to work, probably loading bags or something. Or driving those cool little buggies that run from one end of Singapore Airport or the other, or (God help us!) frisking people for prohibited objects in the security check-in, or directing flights up in flight control. He was a geezer, and you should hunt him out if you find yourself with spare time in Singapore -- more likely he will find you. You see, Changi Airport is not all high-tech gadgetry and orchid gardens surrounded by acres of plush carpets and duty-free emporiums. It is the characters that make the place. Go there for yourself -- you will be astounded. You might even find religion..

Photo copyright LongPasses.Org

n e g a t i v e + e x p e r i e n c e s

Malachy Roscoe for example had this misadventure to relate:

Having transited through Singapore recently from Perth to London I was only too happy to have a few hours to explore what most of your contributors claim is the worldEEEEEEEs best airport. My outward flight had such a tight connection I had no opportunity to enjoy any of the facilities. As a Star Alliance Gold card holder I looked forward to experiencing the hospitality of Singapore airlines and hoped that the service they offered on the ground was equal to that offered in the air. Unfortunately I was left disappointed on both counts. The airport was crowded with very little seating available even at 4am, I found the large selection of shops offering pretty much the same selection as one another and the layout was confusing and cramped. Regarding the hospitality of Singapore airlines, as I approached their business lounge I was quickly turned away and instructed to visit the dedicated Star Alliance lounge. On entering the lounge the attendant in true Singapore style was welcoming and helpful; I requested a shower which was my main reason for visiting and was informed showers were available inside the lounge and given a towel and toiletry kit. I entered the lounge to find it extremely small for such a large hub and a major alliances lounge. There was one shower which you had to queue for and no seats became available during the 1 hour wait for the shower to become free. There was not even an attendant to clean the shower between customers! The food and beverage selection was atrocious and no reading material was to be found.

..

Photo copyright LongPasses.Org

v i s a + n e w s

SOME NEWS FOR TRANSITEES FROM CHINA AND INDIA: For a limited period starting from 1 October 2005, 96-hour visa free transit facilities (VFTF) will be available to PRC and Indian nationals without the need of letters of guarantee by airlines if they are in possession of a valid onward air ticket departing within the next 96-hours and satisfy the following criteria:

Possess a valid visa/long term pass (validity of at least 1 month) issued by any of the following countries*: a. Australia b. Canada c. Japan d. New Zealand e. United Kingdom f. United States of America The 96-hour VFTF is eligible to PRC and Indian nationals who are in transit to or from any third country. However, transit passengers who satisfy the above criteria are not guaranteed entry but are still subjected to Singapore's prevailing entry requirements. Transit passengers who satisfy all the above requirements and allowed entry will be granted a stay of up to 96-hours (4 days) in Singapore. Extension of stay for transit passengers under this VFTF scheme is strictly not allowed. * More countries may be added. Please check with the Singapore Visitors Centres at Changi Airport for more information. Uniquely Singapore Transit Adventure A seamless transportation network and efficient immigration clearance will put you in the middle of the action within minutes! Best of all, there are no airport taxes to be paid when you leave the airport to tour Singapore. From now till March 2006, we have lined up a series of exciting and enticing activities that promise to make your transit in Singapore truly memorable! With a variety of travel options like the Free hourly shuttle to town, Free city tour, Tourist Day Pass and Taxi Tour Guide, you will be spoilt for choices while transiting in Singapore. Apart from the travel options, transit passengers can enjoy a FREE snack voucher* OR a FREE shower facility voucher* for a refreshing shower after they return from the city. Simply collect your voucher from our Singapore Visitors Centres at the Arrival Halls of Changi Airport with your transit pass and passport for redemption at the following outlets: Shower @ Rainforest by SATS Changi Airport Terminal 1 #034-06 3rd Storey Departure/Transit Lounge Snack @ Brek Ristorante Changi Airport Terminal 2 #026-109 Departure/Transit Lounge Snack @ SPFG Boutique CafEEEEEEEE Changi Airport Terminal 1 #025-02B Departure/Transit Lounge Terms and conditions - Only valid for transit passengers with transit pass and valid immigration stamp on passport as proof of having left the airport within a 24-hour period Not applicable to transit passengers on Free City Tour Not refundable or exchangeable for cash or in kind Not applicable with other promotions, discounts or vouchers



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