I MET THIS VIETNAMESE GIRL NGA IN A BAR IN SAIGON EARLY THIS YEAR AND SHE GAVE ME HER EMAIL ADDRESS AND WE GOT TO KNOW EACH OTHER ON THE INTERNET (OH THE BLESSINGS OF MODERN COMMUNICATION TECHNOLOGY!) Almost right from the start, Nga offered to show me around Vietnam. Almost right from the start, she recommended we go to Mui Ne (a cool little surfing town, according to the ever reliable Lonely Planet). To be honest though I'd never heard of the place, and it hadn't been on the itineraries of my two previous trips to Vietnam. Tourists usually do the Ho Chi Minh to Hanoi thing with side trips to Mekong Delta and Halong Bay, at opposite ends of the bamboo pole. But I am tired of well worn paths, so Mui Ne sounded enticing, especially when I was trapped in Japan for the long expanse of 2007, encased in a concrete hell. It would dawn on me sometime later that Mui Ne (or more specifically, the greater Binh Thuan Province of which it is a part) was that strange, vast sandy area I had espied from my plane window back in late 2005, when I dropped into Ho Chi Minh City en route to Sydney with my old girlfriend Chie. And it is true you see a lot of planes streaking across the skies of Binh Thuan Province, like visitors from another planet. It is so close to the city, but a world away in pace and quality of life. And it is definitely true, that there is a lot of sand in this place, both in Mui Ne and more specifically the larger Binh Thuan Province around it...
Covering nearly 8000 square kilometers and comprising just under a million souls, Binh Thuan is a province on the southern part of the central coast. It has a considerably large plain running along the coast (that's what I must have seen when I flew over with Chie in 2005). It leans against the Di Linh Plateau to the west and is criss-crossed by several rivers including the Long, the Luy, the Cai and the Dinh rivers. One thing I repeatedly noticed, during my long misty walks along the beach with Nga or bussing it with our maniac driver over the De Linh Plateau back to HCMC, were all the big slabs of rock sticking out of the ground, kind of a sandstone with the grain running perpendicular to the earth. As if the land had been broken up and tipped vertical, to be slowly worn into nothingness by the surging swells of the South China Sea...
From both air and by land, this place has a desert vibe (it often reminds me of my native Australia, with all its eucalyptus trees and wide blue skies...) The only difference here, is that the cattle roam the beaches below a line of she-oaks, while fishermen work the shore. As Mui Ne Beach Net has written: "The southern coast of Vietnam was characterized by pristine, lowland dry forests until the middle of the last century. Due to deforestation, desertification, soil erosion, degradation and exhaustion, flooding, drought and water pollution caused by unplanned development and clear-cutting, which are widespread throughout the region, this forest type has all but disappeared and a new desert is emerging in its place. Much of the coast of Binh Thuan province now comprises a desert-like environment or may be classified as a desert.
"The Binh Thuan desert has many interesting geological features. Not only are there immense sand dunes, but also vast sand canyons with interesting shapes and formations in rainbows of black, grey, white, red, orange and gold. There are rocky, boulder-strewn mountains, and beaches with amazing stone formations and caves. Hot springs are located at opposite ends of the province along the coast, and recent earthquakes indicate that the region is still seismically active.
"The coastal dunes area are known to contain endemic species of plants, including Dipterocarpaceae, and thought to contain many undiscovered species. Two cactus commonly found in the desert here, dragon fruit or pitaya, and prickly pear are in fact native to the Americas, and were imported to Vietnam..."
Much as Nga had her heart set on Mui Ne, in the end we didn't make it to this off-the-track but increasingly popular little surfing town (which according to Lonely Planet, definitely rocks after dark.) Instead, we were booked into the Anh Doung Resort down the road in Ham Thuan Nam. Whatever, it had pretty much the same vibe as Mui Ne -- endless beaches and acres of sand, sometimes forming into huge sandhills; we did our own rocking at night. Scarcely another soul to be seen, and this was peak holiday season -- but I kind of liked it that way! Long stretches of beach at sunrise -- the lights of fishing boats ghostly through the mist. I saw a dolphin or a whale one day, as I read A Streetcar Named Desire in the billiards room. Anh Duong Resort might not have been top of the range, but it was the toppest I could afford at the time. Here is a log of the processes which led to us ending up there:
Nga said in one of our GMail chats (Oct 29 2007, she was in Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, and I was in Japan): 10.48 PM i have found goodplace for us in MUI NE
"10:50 PM me: I was thinking that now that I get a lot of money, I can afford to come to Vietnam many times in the future. That will be good because I don't like to be stuck in Japan all the time.
"10:51 PM NGA: I HAVE JUST CALLED TO WHITE SAND RESORT BUT IT IS VERY EXPENSIVE HIGH SEASON SUCH CHRISTMAS
10:52 PM me: How much does it cost?
"10:55 PM NGA: WHITE SAND 79-100US THAT TIME. ANH DUONG 35-69US
"me: Not so bad. How long do you want to stay there?
"10:59 PM NGA: ANH DUONGRESORT IS ENTERTAINMENT PLACE
"11:01 PM me: I had a look at both of these hotels on the Internet. They both look good.
"11:02 PM NGA: IT HAS CAMP,TENIS, FISH ,SWIM... MANYINTERESTINGGAME...
When we arrived here yesterday (Christmas Day 2007) we were planning to stay here for four days, then head over to Dalat to see what was happening there. But plans have a habit of mutating once you are on the ground, and inertia is a natural state of the universe (especially when you are on the beach...) To state things straight: we ended up staying more than a week! And I would have stayed longer, if I had the cash and didn't have the need to go back to Japan.
If you want to stay in Binh Thuan Province here are some other resorts in the Phan Thiet area, all of them very reasonably priced in comparison to what they are offering, include:
Thai Hoa Resort: 56 Huynh Thuc Khang St, Ham Tien, Phan Thiet City, Binhthuan. Tel: 84-62 847320/ Fax: 84-62 847879.
Thai Hoa Beach Resort tourist area is located at Mui Ne tourist zone EPhan Thiet, Binhthuan province, far from Ho Chi Minh City 210 kilometers is a peaceful sea area with golden endless spreading Sandy Mountain and coco trees are singing all the day. Thai Hoa Beach Resort tourist area shall give you completely relaxing times.
Passing by the green dragon plans, being in Thai Hoa tourist area you will forget the hot and noisy city, the stressful working days and enjoy fully the beauty and peace of new exploited tourist area.
Rooms range from US$17 to US$35.
Seahorse Resort: Km 11, Ham Tien Ward, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet.
With forty uniquely styled villas nestled in the midst of a 3 hectare coconut garden, Seahorse resort stretches along 200 meters of the pristine white sand coast of Mui Ne. The resort's natural spring gently streams along a rich landscape of flowers, palms, and tropical gardens. It's distinct Vietnamese charm offers a peaceful escape to city dwellers and travelers alike.
Every villa at the Seahorse Resort is uniquely styled in Japanese, Vietnamese, and contemporary Asian designs private terraces.
Vinh Suong Seaside Resort: 46 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet. Tel: 84-62 847469/ Fax: 84-62 847680.
Vinh Suong Seaside Resort is located in premium complex of resorts in Mui Ne. In addition to its separate beach with white sand and clean shore, Vinh Suong Seaside Resort also includes a forest of coconut-trees and poplars rustling by the wind and an orchid garden inviting the visit of butterflies and bees. Over 74 well-equipped rooms were designed in diversified styles, which were located in harmony with the environment of green trees, blue sea, blue sky and whispering waves. This is definitely an ideal spot for you and your family.
Rooms range from US$45 to $103 a night.
Coco Beach Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
4-star Stay
Phu Hai Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
4-star Stay
Saigon Mui Ne Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
4-star Stay
Romana Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
4-star Stay
Bamboo Village Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
4-star Stay
Ocean Star Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
4-star Stay
Pandanus Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
4-star Stay
Terracotta Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
4-star Stay
Blue Ocean Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
4-star Stay
Cham Villas Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
White Sand Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Sailing Club Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Hoang Ngoc Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Swiss Village Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Sunny Beach Resort Spa & Yatch Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Vinh Suong Seaside Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Little Mui Ne Cottages Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Sun Sea Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Bon Bien Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Dynasty Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Palmira Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay
Malibu Resort Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet - Map
3-star Stay ...............................................................
Covering nearly 8000 square kilometers and comprising just under a million souls, Binh Thuan is a province on the southern part of the central coast. It has a considerably large plain running along the coast (that's what I must have seen when I flew over with Chie in 2005). It leans against the Di Linh Plateau to the west and is criss-crossed by several rivers including the Long, the Luy, the Cai and the Dinh rivers. One thing I repeatedly noticed, during my long misty walks along the beach with Nga or bussing it with our maniac driver over the De Linh Plateau back to HCMC, were all the big slabs of rock sticking out of the ground, kind of a sandstone with the grain running perpendicular to the earth. As if the land had been broken up and tipped vertical, to be slowly worn into nothingness by the surging swells of the South China Sea...
Much as Nga had her heart set on Mui Ne, in the end we didn't make it to this off-the-track but increasingly popular little surfing town (which according to Lonely Planet, definitely rocks after dark.) Instead, we were booked into the Anh Doung Resort down the road in Ham Thuan Nam. Whatever, it had pretty much the same vibe as Mui Ne -- endless beaches and acres of sand, sometimes forming into huge sandhills; we did our own rocking at night. Scarcely another soul to be seen, and this was peak holiday season -- but I kind of liked it that way! Long stretches of beach at sunrise -- the lights of fishing boats ghostly through the mist. I saw a dolphin or a whale one day, as I read A Streetcar Named Desire in the billiards room. Anh Duong Resort might not have been top of the range, but it was the toppest I could afford at the time. Here is a log of the processes which led to us ending up there: