| WELCOME TO HORNSBY & THE UPPER NORTH SHORE OF SYDNEY :: NEW SOUTH WALES THE NORTH SHORE OF SYDNEY IS ONE OF THE MOST AFFLUENT PARTS OF THE CITY. Unlike say the eastern suburbs or Vaucluse, the vibe here is more family-friendly, leafy, and sedate. Folks live in large, detached homes, often heritage-listed or Federation-style bungalows, vote for the Liberal Party, and send their kids to elite private schools (Knox Grammar, Abbotsleigh, Barker College, etc). They are more likely to have a pet poodle than a pitbull. on of their city. Things might be changing, but the Central Coast remains an Anglo-Saxon oasis, where fish and chips is considered haute cuisine. When I was a student at Charles Sturt University in the early 1990s to study journalism, I was amazed by how many fellow students hailed from this part of the world. All the cool ones did, at least... the ones I tried to emulate. Ian from Gordon, who introduced me to postmodernism. and nobody used to hate the Central Coast, more than myself. This page here is an attempt of contrition... 
BROOKLYN | 33 ° 33' S 151 ° 13' E THE GATEWAY to the Hawkesbury, Brooklyn is also a vestige of the Central Coast administered by Sydney. Catching the train from Woy Woy, passengers traverse some of the most scenic bushland of the metropolitan periphery. Wondabyne Station, on the tranquil shore of Mullet Creek, is the only one of its kind in Australia's which doesn't have road access. There are a number of tunnels boring through the sandstone bluffs, and bridges, most notably the heritage listed, Hawkesbury River Railway Bridge. You can find images of this bridge frequently in the tiny hamlet of Brooklyn, emblazoned on the walls of the Angler's Rest Hotel, or commemorated in historical plaques in McKell Park. For some reason, Chinese visitors like to see the bridges, and even get their wedding photos taken near them.  The bridge was opened in 1889, and until then, Brooklyn served as the terminus of the Newcastle railway line. Folk travelling further north had to disembark here to catch a paddle steamer to Gosford. While the paddle steamer is history, there are still plenty of places around here which are only accessible by ferry, like Dangar Island. Boats sail to Palm Beach, Patonga, and the Pittswater; I saw a Fantasea ferry once docking in the harbor, which may have been a private charter. Brooklyn retains its maritime heritage, but it is also an overland hub, due to its location of the Great North Walk. Ferries head out to the riverine islands, which are otherwise cut off from the outside world. It is also an overland hub, due to its location on the Great North Wak. You can typically see tons of trekkers trudging through town, lugging enormous backpacks and sporting their best gear from Kathmandu. I would like to join them myself, and challenge the Mount Kuring-gai to Berowra bushwalk. It takes 5 hours to reach Cowan, with a series of brutal climbs and drops and stunning views. By train, that journey only takes about 10 minutes, but it is equally scenic, with dramatic vistas endlessly presenting themselves. Brooklyn Dam is about 2.6km from town, and has a campsite. Buses arrive every day, carting mostly elderly visitors from the city, but also children too. If you are lucky, you might catch the old steam train too! He Needs Food wrote: "The Hawkesbury region, just north of Sydney’s metro, is one of the places I’ve been to in our wide, dry country that makes me imagine how things would have been before the Europeans claimed somebody else’s land as their own. Let’s just ignore todays million-dollar houses peppered amongst the native bushland, any marina’s (sic) and freeway overpasses and focus on the rugged Aussie bush that drops into the dark waters of the Hawkesbury River and its estuaries. Golden sandstone cliffs, eucalyptus and grass trees, wild flowers and that glorious aroma of our native bushland. I love the fact that this crusty old town is surrounded by such natural beauty." It goes without saying that the Hawkesbury River is a crucial waterway and has played a key role in the settlement of New South Wales. It was originally known as Deerubbin by its indigenous inhabitants, and given its present name by Governor Phillip in 1789. It was one of the first areas to be settled by Europeans outside of Sydney, due to its fertile land suitable for agriculture. Folk travelling further north had to disembark here to catch a paddle steamer to Gosford. While the paddle steamer is history, there are still plenty of places around here which are only accessible by ferry, like Dangar Island. Others choose to live or holiday on houseboats. Brooklyn retains its heritage as a maritime hub. Oysters are huge here, which makes sense since they grow them in the sparkling waters. Not huge in size that is, but huge in popularity. You can find them served fresh at Fitzies Fish and Chips, opposite the railway station, at Hawkesbury River Oyster Shed, and the Floating Oyster Wine Bar, or the Lifeboat. There is also a pearl shop (the Little Hanging Oyster) in the village. Be careful walking on the oystered rocks as they sure get slippery and sharp as hell! There are a number of tunnels and bridges, most notably the heritage listed, Hawkesbury River Railway Bridge. Wondabyne Station, just before the longest tunnel, is the only one of its kind in Australia's which doesn't have road access. You can see images of the bridge frequently in the tiny hamlet, emblazoned on the walls of the Angler's Rest Hotel, or commemorated in historical plaques in the riverside parks. Bus #562 connects Brooklyn with Mooney Mooney, on the other side of the river in the Central Coast. The Brooklyn Motel also run courtesy buses from Bridge Street to the oyster farms at Mooney Mooney, passing the restored wetlands area and Baden Powell Hall with its majestic trees, and a whole series of marinas. Anglers Rest Hotel: 216 Brookyln Road, Brooklyn. Phone: (02) 9985 7257. Website: website here. Tariffs range $80 to $120 for the single rooms, depending on the day of the week; double rooms are a flat $120 per night. I was surprised that you can't make bookings online -- they keep all the reservations in an oldschool book under the bar. Call them if you want to make an appointment, but you won't be able to earn any points. For some reason I ended up with a double even though I was only charged at the single rate, which equated to $560 for a week. Go figure! It was nice having all that extra space. Comfort wise, I would rate the property as a Grade 2 hotel, let's say a Grade 2.5! You have to share the bathrooms, but the bathrooms were always clean. The lock on the door was hard to open, and there was no cupboard space for clothes. There were no arrests during the time I stayed there, which is always good! I would have liked to stay longer, but it was not available. Brooklyn's Corner: Shop 1/1 Bridge Street, Brooklyn. Phone: (0420) 274 347. Beloved local cafe offering iced coffee, cakes and quiche. Brooklyn Motel: 7 Bridge Street, Brooklyn. Phone: (0497) 227 041. Website: website here. Somewhat more upmarket than the pub across the road, run by Burt and Anker (whose Filipina wife handles housekeeping duties, I believe). There are only five rooms, all with Google TV, spa bath and other comforts, with rates ranging from $155 to $165 per night. It's easily a Grade 4 on my accommodation scale. I was feeling like shit when I checked in, due to a Wind-Cold Invasion precipitated by a brutal early start to winter. It was only 13°C outside, and whenever a fresh gust came up, I recoiled. They say taking a hot bath is a remedy, and would also be a good after a long walk from Berowra.. Jet Ski Safari: 19/9 Dangar Road, Brooklyn. Phone: (0475) 003 000. Website: website here. They will train you in the art of jet skiing, which is understandably a valuable skill around here. An advanced course goes for about $330.  BEROWRA | 33 ° 51' S 151 ° 31' E WITH LEAFY streets and genteel lawns, Berowra has an "old money" feel. You could imagine that many of the kids around here go to private schools, such as Riverview or Pymble Ladies' College. Berowra Waters Road leads from the highway side west to the creek, which is even more prestigious. Restaurants offer degustation menus, some of them prepared by Michelin-starrd chefs. a Transportation wise, Berowra marks the end of the CityRail suburban network, with services going to Penrith and Emu Plains (on the T1 line). I used to catch that train once myself, from St Leonard's to Blacktown, when I worked at Cumberland... Bus #599 goes out to Berowra Heights and Berowra Waters, at the end of the fractal... The suburb is ravaged by fire, regularly. That goes with the territory of being completely surrounded by bush. Bambinos Too: 1/1A Turner Street, Berowra Heights. Phone: (02) 9456 1622. Website: website here. Dishing up pizzas, calzones and ribs... Berowra Waters Holidays: Phone: 0405 565 256. Website: website here. A suite of upmarket accommodation options are offered here on the Berowra Creek, including studios, cottages, houses and apartments. Many of them have a motorized tinny, kayaks or fishing rods included in the price. You probably need a boat to get around some of these remote stretches of the river. A seaplane might come in handy too! Berowra Waters Inn: Dusthole Point. As Tasted by Two related on their blog: "The journey to Berowra Waters Inn alone is worth getting excited over. The scenic drive north takes you past sandstone valleys, oyster farms and winding ranges. The Inn itself cannot be accessed by road, so guests hop onboard a private shuttle boat that takes them to the restaurant at Dusthole Point. There’s something secretive and incredibly cultish about the whole experience..." Hideout 2081: 4 Berowra Waters Road, Berowra. Phone: (0411) 580 199. Website: website here. By day this a venue close to the railway tracks is a cafe; by night it is a restaurant and tapas bar serving roast duck with truffled mashed potato and pickled prunes, and the like. Kookaburra Retreat: Lonsdale Avenue, Berowra Heights. Website: website here. A little less exclusive than the Berowra Waters properties detailed above, but still quite expensive, with sweeping views of the Marramarra National Park. HORNSBY | 33 ° 27' S 151 ° 23' E From Mount Colah, we start to enter the greater Sydney suburban sprawl. The roads are busier..  KINCUMBER IS A SUBURB on Avoca Drive, just past the turnoff to Davistown and Saratoga. It has its own Coles, pub and the obligatory Rajdhani Indian restaurant. There is a fried chicken place too, called Phat Chicken as I recall, as well as a fruit shop that has a cafe inside of it. From Kincumber, one can access four beaches, some of them famous even on a national level: Terrigal, Avoca, Copacabana and McMasters Beaches. Most of these beaches have their own lagoons. On the way to Avoca, you will see Shady Palms, a modern Italian venue, on the righthand side. A few hundreds meters down the road is the Saltwater Bar and Bistro. You can also access Kincumber fropasses by St Hubert's Island. I tried to walk over it once, but it didn't seem possible. p>  While it may have had a working-class past, these dayscommunity with more than its fair share of New Age spiritualists and Yoga fanatics. It is secluded, but that is part of the appeal. There is a road here of course but for the more adventurous, you could try walking from Pearl Beach, throuhrivercruises.com.au/patonga-ferry-timetable.html">Palm Beach or Brooklyn. Stay at theffers fine dining. It is quite possibly the most affluent suburb of the Cepears, the more southerly you live, the wealthier (and more socially sophisticated) you are. Check out these multimillion dollar houses on Coral Crescent!  Ocean Beach Holiday Resort: Sydney Avenue, Umina Beach. Website: website here. At the southern edge of the beach, the Ocean Beach Holiday Resort has been drawing families for decades with its offer of oldschool fun and frivolity. Accommodation choices range from tents and caravans to more comfortable apartments and villas. 
ONCE A SLEEPY VILLAGE, Ettalong is now a popular getaway with a number of resorts, gourmet restaurants, and cinemas which screen quirf such cosmopolitan influences might be the ferry service to Palm Beach, which effectively makes Ettalong an extension of the Northern Beaches. Every weekend this suburb swells with boatloads of Sydneysiders who stay at their holiday homes, AirBNBs or one of the resorts. There are two as I have mentioned, and they dominate the Ettalong skyline. Cafes proudly advertise the pedigree of their coffee beans, while you can buy juice that will cleanse you for a yoga retreat. On my last visit, I saw an ad for a speed dating group based on Tarot cards.
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The problem with being a tourist town is that it gets quiemotel are named like streets... mine was called "Via di Giorgio". The streets are lined with marble statues, stained glass windows, and other Roman artefacts. Flowerboxes hang from the overhead balconies, while there is supposed to be an indoor pool with opulent tiling (I never found it).
The Ettalong: 384 Ocean View Road, Ettalong Beach. Website: website here.Open 7am to 12pm daily. Melbourne-style cafe with beans sourced from around the world. Burgers on pot HORNSBY | 33 ° 51' S 151 ° 31' E Comprising a pendulum, and a satanic clockpiece, as described by Mirror Sydney. Hornsby Westfield: Florence Street, Hornsby. website here. Massive mall with an entire store devoted to Ugg boots, Mumbai-style cocktail bar, and more. Hornsby Westfield: Florence Street, Hornsby. ts, Mumbai-style cocktail bar. BRITISH COMEDIAN Spike Milligan liked to mock Woy Woy, calling it in the only aboveground cemetery in the world. I used to agree with him, in my overconfident youth, but now I have changed my tune. What began as a fishing village in the mangroves of the Brisbane Water has now matured into a weekend resort with authentic murals painted on the walls, and its own Gnostic Corner selling crystals and Kombucha tea. It has developed a vibe, which cannot be denied. Its proximity to Sydney makes it a magnet for future development... (For my complete guide to Woy Woy,  !)
THORNLEIGH | 33 ° 25' S 151 ° 20' E ONE OF Australia's legendary surf beaches, Avoca Beach sits between Copacabana Beach, and Terrigal. The hills around here are quite bluffy, which makes walking a challenge. Better to drive your own Tesla here, as my friend Garnet Mae did -- or even better, let the Tesla drive you!.  Point Cafe: Avoca Beach Surf Life Saving Club. Phone: (02) 4382 2766. Website: website here. I enjoyed brunch here with Garnet and his family in the summer of 2021/22. There were the obligatory mango smoothies, crab tacos, and steak sandwiches, etc. It is very close to the theatre, and the Captain Cook Lookout, from which the skyscrapers of Sydney can be seen, as we GOSFORD COMES across as a city on the go. All around town, construction work is carrying on. There is a wealth of heritage sg back to the convict days. Nonetheless, Gosford's eyes are framed forwards, towards a glorious future... (For my complete guide to Gosford, !)
ERINA | 33 ° 26' S 151 ° 23' E EAST OF GOSFORD on the way to Terrigal, Erina is the retail hub of the Central Coast. Unlike Gosford, this suburb was designed for cars. Nonetheless, I have explored it on foot and by bus, dodging all the traffic pulliics, Persian rug emporiums, and wholesalers of all descriptions. Taking the The Entrance turnoff at Erina, one ghts. The land originally belonged to William Bean in 1824, who noted that the region was heavily timbered with "trees of gigantic height", such as blue gums, blackbutts, and so on. The area became an important source of hardwood once the Sydney building boom began. Take the Terrigal turnoff, on the other hand, and the air gets saltier, and the vibe, more holiday-like.  geological marvel dating back to the Triassic Era... (For my complete guide to Terrigal, !)
 LISAROW | 33 ° 22' S 151 ° 22' E TRAVELLING NORTH from Gosford, the wayfarer twists and turns through a number of residential suburbs, genteLisarow, a road appropriately known as the Ridgway branches off to traverse the highlands. Tall trees, some possibly dating from the days of William Bean, explode from every bend, along with the occasional view of Tuggerah Lake. Eventually, the Ridgeway descends to Tumbi Umbi. If, however, you stick to the highway or the railway, your next big stop will be Ourimbah. OURIMBAH | 33 ° 22' S 151 ° 22' E HALFWAY BETWEEN Gosford and Wyong is the old township of Ourimbah. Intersected as it is with roads and railways, it seems a bit like a byways, rather than an authentic village. Which is a pity, but there are still some relics of the settler days if you look hard enough. There is a TAFE college, and a campus of Newcastle University. There is a cemetery nearby, where some of my ancestors lie in peace. See Off Campus for some ideas on student accommodation in Ourimbah. The Lodge is a long-running share house... it even has its own website! Lee Rowan's Gardenworld: Website: website here.  My brother used to work here back in the day, when they had a different name. Now part of Lee Rowan's empire, it is close to Big Flower, another nursery. Plants is what they do. … get the usual Aussie café fare, such as Smartie cookies. The staff are friendly enough, and there the last time I visited, a charming sparrow helped me complete my cookie. My brother told me that they frequently hold wakes here for mourners from Palmdale Cemetery...  ... which is located on the other side of this farm. In the "Rose Garden" section lies my grandfather Herb, my grandmother Ivy, and her sister "Aunty" Olive. In 2019 my father joined them afterase. It is not a bad place to spend eternity, with its genteel lawns and autumnal leaves. BERKELY VALE | 33 ° 20' S 151 ° 22' E  FOLLOWING ENTERPRISE Drive from Ourimbah, you will eventually reach Berkeley Vale, on the southern shore of Tuggerah Lake. Every month or two I have been visiting Dr Goripati to receive his wisdom, at the private hospital here. There is a reconstructed wetland, and restoration works on the foreshore. Driving east, Lakedge Avenue will eventually take you to Tumbi Umbi, a light industrial precinct. On the other side of Wyong Road lies the Mingara Recreation Club, one of the local institutions. Chittaway Bay Tavern: 100 Chittaway Rd, p>  Mingara Recreation Club: 12-14 Mingara Drive, Tumbi Umbi. Phone: (02) 4349 7799. Website: website here. Quite possibly the largest sports club in the former Wyong Shire, Mingara Recreation Club is built close to Tumbi Umbi Creek on Wyong Road. It is like a precinct all of its own with enormous gym and swimming pool, bars, restaurants and dancehalls. Dr Sturm has his practice at Mingara Health, a short distance from the club. I visit him once a year to receive his wisdom on my supposed Huntington's Disease. THE ENTRANCE | 33 ° 20' S 151 ° 29' E SITUATED ON the mouth of Tuggerah Lake north of Terrigal east of Berkeley Vale, The Entrance is one of the classic seaside towns that you can find in this part of the world. It is called The Entrance, presumably, because it sits astride the outlet of Tuggerah Lake, where the larists abound, many from Sydney; Lebanese and Koreans are common in the summer months, and you can buy their food in the local Coles... (For the full guide to The Entrance, ).
TUGGERAH | 33 ° 30' S 151 ° 41' E TUGGERAH IS a smaller version of Erina with a Westfield and cinema, railway station, business parks and car yards. It is located close to the M1 motorway, and the expanding housing estates of Warnervale. West of the railway line between Tuggerah and the Wyong River stretches the former Pioneer Dairy farm, now restored as a wetlands teeming with birds.  WYONG | 33 ° 28' S 151 ° 42' E WYONG IS built on the banks of the everbrown Wyong River, which provides much of the volume of Tuggerah Lake. Like Ourimbah and Gosford, Wyong dates back to the settler days. This town is proud of its history and is trying to bring it back to life. Gentrification is the latest fad: old banks are being converted into cafes or gourmet pizzerias. There is a courthouse, a railway station, and a couple of pubs. Down on their luck Kooris ask for cash on the street, as do down on their lucks whitefellas.  There used to be a council here, but that has been disbanded in the pursuit of progress. The courthouse is still working and it attracts a small legion of lawyers. The annual show at the Wyong Racecourse, meanwhile, is one of the social highlights of the region. Love Lanes is held every February with a link to Valentine's Day (although the last one I attended was in April, go figure!) That might have been a Covid-induced disruption. This is a (pandemic allowing) licensed restaurant and grocery store stocked with South African food, located near Aldi on the way to Watanobbi. You can buy spice for rice, ... Items on the menu include Durban curry, which is curiously served in a hollowed out loaf of bread, Russian sausage and chips, and Mozambique prawns. Wyong Bowling Club: 3 Panonia Road, Wyong. Phone: (02) 4356 2260. Website: website here. Part of the Wyong Rugby League Club Group, this venue has possibly the cheapest beer on the coast. As of September 2020, a schooner e are discounted meals most nights of the GOROKAN | 33 ° 15' S 151 ° 31' E ON THE road between Kanwal and Toukley lies the small suburb of Gorokan. It occupies the zone between Tuggerah and Budgewoi Lakes. The local high school, close to Lake Haven Shopping Centre, is supposed to be one of the worst in New South Wales, according to HSC results. Kanwal shopping centre is built on the intersection of Sparks Road and the Pacific Highway. There is a fish and chips shop there which seems to do a decent trade. As is typical in Australia these days, they stuff a lot of things into pies. Even kangaroo meat if you are lucky. Close to Kanwal, between the highway and Warnervale, lies Hamlyn Terrace which is home to Wyong Public Hospital, a private hospital, and also the odd nursing home or two. One of them, Starrett Lodge, I used LAKE HAVEN | 33 ° 14' S 151 ° 30' E St Ives Village: Black truffle Xiao Long Bao. name: Charmhaven, Blue Haven, and Lake Haven, the largest of them all. Strangely, there are no harbors or ports to be seen in any of these suburbs, which adjoin Budgewoi Lake. It might just be a real estate marketing gimmick! This is where I lived from 2011 to 2020, so I got to know this area painfully well. Lake Haven is known for its large shopping mall, and for being a transportation hub. You can shop at Coles and Woolworths, and there's also an Aldi, Dan Murphy's, and all the rest. At the bus stop near the public library, buses with a "90" number go north, while those from 70 to 80 go south. Busways #95 goes to Morisset, via Lake Munmorah, and also visits Gwandalan and Summerland Point on the way, an epic two-hour journey. I tried to take the trip in early 2020 but was defeated by my anxiety. . .  GORDON | 33 ° 16' S 151 ° 32' E TOUKLEY IS A PLACE where I have worked, walked, dreamed and contemplated for myself a life in distant realms. My first job was at the now defunct Wyong Shire Advocate in the mid 1990s. I had bailed out too early on my working holiday in London due to homesickness, and regretted abandoning that concrete jungle. Compared to London, Toukley was insanely quite... and geriatric too! All I wanted to do was escape. And escape I did, by instigating the Sydney Shift. Returning in 2011, I was astounded to find that it hadn't really changed that much. The newspaper was gone, but the brick office it occupied was still pretty much the same. That charcoal chicken and chips joint, the sandwich bar near Coles, they were still there (and probably, still are now!) At one point in the 10s, this was ranked the second-most violent venue in New South Wales. A nightclub with sand on the floor, topless hostesess on a Friday... who would ask for more? Kaibigan Emporium: 319 Main Road, Toukley. Phone: (02) 4397 3042. There seems to be a micro Filipino community in Toukley, and this emporium is one of their shopping haunts. It is like a little piece of south east Asia, stacked with strange and colourful products.... (For my full WOMO review, click here.) Trinhy's Vietnamese: 266 Main Road, Toukley. Website: website here.  Trinhy's started as a foodtruck in Sydney, but now has a restaurant in Toukley (as of 2019). You can drink Bia Saigon, or oldstyle Viet coffee, with the condensed milk shit and all. I had that, and spring rolls, while watching some promotional videos about Vietnam on their restaurant TV. WARNERVALE | 33 ° 25' S 151 ° 43' E WARNERVALE IS ONE OF THE few places on Central Coast that looks completely diffcome the main urban centre for the northern reaches of the Central Coast. They were a local landmark, until their demolition. Warnervale is also home to a small airport which may or may not be expanded in the future. ST IVES  Epstein Chiropractors, and Jews from South Africa. WYONG SHIRE BEFORE 2017, YOU WOULD HAVE SURELY NOTICED THE TWIN TOWERS OF THE LAKE MUNMORAH POWER STATION, WHICH RISE GREY OVER THE GREYGREEN SCRUB. They were a local landmark, until their demolition. YARRAMALONG | 33 ° 22' S 151 ° 28'  YARRAMALONG VALLEY CRACKS FRACTALLY through the north-west reaches of the Central Coast, following the course of Wyong River. It is genteel country, dotted with horses, turf farms, home of TreeTops Adventure Park, which is located in the Ourimbah State Forest. It is just across the road from the Yarramalong Valley Horse Farm Stay, a popular wedding venue. While kids might be inclined to dangle from the trees, adults are drawn to the bushwalking and camping opportunities in the area: it took Marek Blas one hour and 37 minutes to complete the Ourimbah State Forest Loop. This is the original "Happy Valley" territory, and one might stumble upon a possible illegal Rave party while wandering around. is is jian festivals and events, Yarramalong Road finally splits into two options, Brush Creek Road, and Ravensdale Road. Whichever way you choose, you will find another valley to explore.  WYEE | The Wyee Nursery is said to be a good place to relax. They have conifers and talking cockatoos.
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